Lessico Ferré: from archive to design

Apritimoda 2026

October 24–25, 2026, Gianfranco Ferré Research Centre, via Tortona 37, Milan

For Apritimoda 2026, the Gianfranco Ferré Research Centre presents the second edition of the project dedicated to studying and reinterpreting the white shirt.

The archive, a place of knowledge and a resource for design, opens its doors with LESSICO FERRÉ, a project developed by the Gianfranco Ferré Research Centre in collaboration with the Fundamentals of Fashion Design Studio within the Bachelor’s degree programme in Fashion Design at the School of Design, Politecnico di Milano.

Now in its second edition, the project explores the white shirt as an archetype of Gianfranco Ferré’s design practice. It introduces students to his expressive language and construction techniques through an experience that brings together archival research, analysis and experimentation.

First-year students, guided by Barbara Mugnai together with Alessandra Canonico, Marzia Devoto and Valentina Donadel, worked on four iconic shirts from the Gianfranco Ferré ready-to-wear collections: Sailor Glam (Spring/Summer 1982), Ronde (Spring/Summer 1993), Plastron and Rabari (Spring/Summer 2002). Their study combined close observation of the original garments with an analysis of materials held in the Gianfranco Ferré Historical Archive: technical drawings and runway look sketches, runway and advertising campaign photographs, and immersive 360° images.

Drawing on these resources, each group reinterpreted the most significant construction features and details of their assigned shirt, adapting them to the classic Polishirt pattern. The process involved technical drawing, the creation of study mock-ups and toiles, adjustments to the fit, and the construction of final prototypes in cotton poplin.

The experience enabled students to combine skills in design, pattern cutting and garment construction while developing their ability to work as a team. Ferré’s heritage thus becomes an active resource for education: a vocabulary to understand and reinterpret, through which to explore new design solutions.

More information on the Reserch Centre website.